San Juan Vineyards 2014 Madeleine Angevine, Puget Sound, $18
Winery owner Yvonne Swanberg helped her late husband plant 3 acres of this Loire Valley grape on their property near Friday Harbor, Wash., in the middle of the San Juan Islands. And winemaker Chris Primus’ work with this cross of obscure varieties — Madeleine Royals and Precoce de Malingre — ranks as one of Washington’s most fascinating white wines year in and year out. He harvested this vintage Oct. 12 at a ripeness level of 18 Brix, and he ferments it to dryness using stainless steel.
The nose is intoxicating with hints of honeydew melon, pina colada, fresh-cut Gala apple, white peach and seashells. It’s a clean, light and delicate wine that’s laser-focused on white peach, melon and sweet herbs, supported by a steady stream of navel orange acidity. It’s an ideal wine with summertime salads and things from the sea.
Production: 614 cases